Why organic?

I’ve been learning Organic growing practices on my farms these last two seasons.  I thought I should go into Organic a little bit and explain why I think  it’s important.  Many people I talk to seem to have a poor opinion of organic or don’t understand why one would want to use organic practices.  I want to explain why I value organic and would prefer to see organic practices, both at a home gardening level and at a commercial farming level.

First of all, what does organic really mean?  Organic food is that which has been grown without the use of chemical or synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, or herbicides.  It is also not genetically modified – more about that later.  Fertilizers can be used on organic farms (in fact they are a highly critical ingredient), but they are made of things like ground up mineral rocks, composted animal manure, bone meal, kelp, and etc.  They cannot be petroleum-based or man-made compounds.  There are some organic pesticide sprays as well, made from things like dried flowers or elemental Sulfur.  However, even though these are technically classified as organic, many (most?) organic growers choose not to employ them and instead rely on techniques like crop rotation, trap crops, cover cropping, and fostering beneficial insects as predators, as ways to reduce pest outbreaks.

Organic practices, when used correctly, make the soil richer and a more hospitable place for growth.  The soils are more likely to be balanced, contain micronutrients, trace elements, and healthy bacteria and fungi.  Non-organic chemical pest control tends to kill off all the healthy soil life in addition to the targeted pests.  Therefore land that has been hit with chemical pesticides repeatedly tends to develop *more* harmful outbreaks because there are no beneficials there to protect against them.   Non-organic chemical fertilizers tend to be a heavy-handed dose of Nitrogen to give plants a short-lived growth spurt but they *imbalance* the soil and over time make it a less hospitable and diverse environment.  This is basically what people mean when they use the word “sustainable.”  A blanket statment with lots of room for qualifications is that good organic practices are more likely to be sustainable indefinitely, whereas conventional practices get you good crop once or twice and then require more and more inputs as the soil gets worse and worse.  Think about the meaning of the word sustainable.  Why would we want to do something unsustainable if a sustainable option is there?  Well, because the sustainable option requires more work and the unsustainable option is easy.  Easy, though, for now.  Eventually, following unsustainable practices is going to make for an awful lot of work.  Can we not think ahead and realize that unsustainable literally means it’s not going to work forever.  Can we not buckle down and do the work required to do it right the first time?

Back to organics, though.  The place where fertilizers and pesticides and other growing practices are classified as organic is within the USDA (Department of Agriculture) Organic Standards.  Farms that wish to call themselves Certified Organic must be certified annually by one of several approved certification groups.  They must show various forms of documentation and pay a fee for this certification.

As I mentioned before, many organic farmers choose to follow their own sense of best practices instead of doing everything allowable by the organic standards.  Similarly, many (most?) of the farms that I know of that are following organic practices are not Certified Organic.  These farmers are not willing to pay the money and jump through the hoops required to gain the USDA certification.  They prefer to make their good farming practices transparent to their consumers in the hope that those consumers will buy from them without the official stamp of approval.

On the other side of the coin, much of the organic produce you can buy in the grocery store comes from “Big Organic” suppliers.  These are huge farms, mainly in California, who, in my opinion at least, follow the letter of the Organic law instead of the spirit.  Although I haven’t worked on a farm like this, it is my understanding that the produce may not be all that different from conventional.  It is still industrial-scale, mechanized agriculture.  Grocery store organic, therefore, is good in a pinch but is not the produce I would generally choose to buy.  “Real organic” (again, my opinion), comes from the farmers market *or* your local food co-op type store.  In Seattle, PCC and Madison Market are the go-to places.  Any store that indicates the name of the farm where items were grown, rather than just the region, is going to be your supplier of the real goods.  I would recommend Michael Pollan’s Omnivore’s Dilemma and In Defense of Food for a more eloquent description of Big Organic.

Let me take a little tangent now and relate something interesting I noticed when I was home in Michigan last August.  Of course the agriculture there is all corn and soy just like the rest of the midwest.  These are the two giants of the industrial crops – produced for animal feed as well as to be broken down into their biological components and made into food additives like lecithin, mono- and di-glycerides, and xanthan gum.  Yes, these are all corn or soy — I looked them up.   Anyway, I was intimately familiar with Michigan’s corn/soy landscape from my childhood, and I remember being aware that the fields surrounding our neighborhood were sometimes corn and sometimes soybeans.  Crop rotation was being practiced, at least on a very minimal level.  But this time, I noticed something funny – all the soybean fields had scattered cornstalks poking out of them.

Why is this funny?  It’s just last year’s corn coming back as a weed in this year’s soybean field.  Well, the funny – or scary – part is that there were no other weeds there.  The soybeans were growing out of bare ground except for the cornstalks popping up here and there.  I might not have noticed this except for the fact that I am now familiar with how the fields look on the organic vegetable farms I’ve been working at.  There are weeds everywhere.  Nature abhors a blank space, and everywhere vegetables are not, there are “natural” plants (i.e. weeds) coming in to compete.  As farmers it is our job to keep the weeds to a minimum at critical times for the vegetable to germinate and grow.  We do this using hoes, our hands, and sometimes the tractor.  Other times it is our job to make peace with the fact that the weeds are there — as long as they are not outcompeting our vegetables, the presence of these plants shows that our soil is fertile.

In conventional Ag, however, weeding is done with herbicides.  These chemicals kill off the weed plants so the farmer doesn’t have to do it by hand.  How come the chemicals kill only the weeds and not the vegetables?  You might well ask.  They’re both plants, aren’t they?  Well in some cases, the chemicals can be targeted to kill only seeds that have emerged and not unsprouted ones, so these could be applied when the vegetable seeds are first planted and before they have emerged.  In other cases, as with the soybean fields I noticed, the vegetable plants are made to be resistant to the chemicals so the chemicals can be applied while the vegetables are fully grown and will kill only the weeds.   The way they are made resistant is by genetic modification — insertion or deletion of genes from their DNA.  Genetically Modified Organisms (GMO’s) is a term that I’d like you to learn if you haven’t already.

Monsanto produces “Roundup-Ready” GMO corn and soybeans.  This means that the DNA of these plants has been genetically modified — in this particular case it has had a gene from a bacterium inserted — in such a way that it becomes resistant to Roundup (Monsanto’s trademarked name for its potent herbicide composed mainly of the chemical glyphosate).  Are you tracking with me here?  You can now spray your soybean field with this toxic chemical that will kill every type of plant growing there except for the soybeans.   You can buy the chemical, and the seed that resists it, only from Monsanto which has patented both.

Seeing the stray corn plants in the otherwise weed-free soybean fields all across Michigan freaked me out because I was unmistakeably seeing Monsanto’s takeover with my own eyes.  These farmers had grown Roundup-Ready corn the year before in the fields that they were now using for Roundup-Ready soybeans.  When they doused their fields with Roundup this spring, it killed all the weeds and made the soil an inhospitable place for more weeds to grow.  There’s nothing there except soybeans — except for those corn plants that sprouted from last year’s fallen seed and are now growing there as weeds.  They’re GMO’s with the Roundup Ready gene too.

Doesn’t this just seem wrong at a very basic level?  I’m sure there are scientific studies on both sides (and how many of the studies showing Roundup does no harm are funded by Monsanto?) But isn’t it just common sense to think that 1) spraying large quantities of a chemical that kills things onto farmland is probably not good for the land or the people spraying it, and 2) vegetables that have been made able to withstand the spraying of this killer chemical and then doused with it multiple times might be a strange and unnatural thing to eat?

GMO food crops were first planted in the United States in 1996. In 2010 in the US, 93% of the planted area of soybeans, 93% of cotton, 86% of corn and 95% of the sugar beet were genetically modified varieties. (Wikipedia).

Zero in 1995.  Ninety percent in  2010.  Isn’t this unrestrained skyrocket to complete dominance of a never-before-seen organism a little scary, too?  I feel pretty sure that we were growing a hell of a lot of corn pretty darn well before 1996.  The rest of the world is taking a more measured approach to GMO’s.  Other countries, most notably the European Union,  whose governments are not controlled by Monsanto (sorry, perhaps this is the leftist propaganda getting to me), have banned various types of GMO seeds or have banned importation of GMO crops or require labelling, etc.

Not so the US.  If you’re in America eating a non-organic product containing corn or soy, or restaurant food that was cooked in corn or soybean or canola oil, you’re almost assuredly eating genetically modified food.  However, something important that I learned recently is, Organic (basically) Equals GMO-free.  I’m sure there are trace amounts or exceptions or whatever, but the organic standards say that organics can’t contain GMO’s.  These days I really do only buy organic corn chips and tofu because I really have decided that GMO crops is a practice I don’t want to support.

Everything about it just seems wrong — what about the patenting of seeds?  What about the fact that repeated applications of Roundup has now been shown to be creating weeds that have evolved resistance to this killer chemical?  These are whole big issues in themselves.  You can find plenty of information on GMO’s that will make it much clearer than anything I can explain here.   This statement from The Non-GMO Project is a good one to start with.  I like this bullet point from that document:

The scientifically demonstrated risks and clear absence of real benefits have led experts to see GM as a clumsy, outdated technology. They present risks that we need not incur, given the availability of effective, scientifically proven,
energy-efficient and safe ways of meeting current and future global food needs.

I believe that we as a society know what good farming and good food looks like.   We just choose to try to find ways to get around the fact that farming is hard and requires knowledge and skill.  We choose instead to attempt to outsmart nature by using heavy handed agricultural practices like thousand-acre monocultures, government subsidized commodity crops, GMOs and chemical controls.  These practices are not sustainable; they are a shameful mismanagement and misuse of our land and our farmers’ hard work;  and they result in a strange and off-balance food system that has totally perverted what we recognize as food and is making us fat and unhealthy.

Non-organic agriculture has only been widely practiced from the 20th century on.  It’s pure propaganda that calls non-organic “conventional” as it has only been conventionally done that way in the last 100 years.   My grandmother remembers the milkman and butcher coming around with deliveries, for goodness sake.  There’s local, small-scale, organic for you- but it didn’t have to call itself that.  It was just food.  Imagine how different that milk and meat was from what passes for the same items today.  I believe that we need to rescue our food system, not by bringing it back exactly to the way it used to be, but by bringing back a lot of the old time-tested elements and doing our best to ensure that we use our great amount of knowledge and technology wisely.

I believe that changes can happen as more and more people are currently recognizing the problems and making themselves knowledgeable about how to fix them.  I also believe that individual consumers who don’t care to get involved in food politics can still make small changes to their food-buying habits that will begin to have a big influence on restoring sanity to America’s food problem.  See if you can make some small steps; you don’t have to go “whole hog” (as it were) right off the bat.  Here’s what I would say about what to eat, starting with the best options:

1. Food you grow and raise (organically) yourself

2. Food you buy from producers you know and whose farms you have seen

3. Food you buy from any vendor at your farmers market (I believe it’s safe to assume the market management has some knowledge about the producers’ practices, and I support small and local over and above Certified Organic,  so I buy from market vendors even if they’re not Certified Organic)

4. Food you buy from a local co-op type grocery store (These tend to carry a lot of “real” organics and thoughtfully-chosen non-organics, plus are fun to shop at once you get used to them)

5. Food you buy from a restaurant that cooks from scratch and lists local/organic sources of meat and produce

6. Organic food you buy from a supermarket or food you buy from a restaurant that’s listed on the menu as organic (unusual)

7. (If you care about GMO’s): Non-organic food from a supermarket that doesn’t contain any corn, soy, or sugarbeet-derived ingredients.  Food you buy in a restaurant that hasn’t been cooked in corn, soybean, or canola oil.

Whew.  Okay.  Thanks for reading, let me know your thoughts, and happy eating.




Thank you, bunnies

As of last Saturday my rabbit experiment at the yurt is over. Successfully concluded for the most part I would say.

Back in April, I couldn’t believe that Alice was talking me into raising meat rabbits.  Now 7 months later, the bunnies and everything that goes along with them feel like a normal part of my daily life.  Alice and I raised our first litter together – they were born in May and we harvested right before Al left in August.  I decided to do a second batch by myself so they were born in Aug and just harvested last weekend.

I remember before my first farm apprenticeship feeling like meat was very mysterious.  After reading books about the industrial meat production system, I wanted to get “better” meat but I felt like I didn’t know how.  I had no real connection between meat and animals.  Over the course of that first season on Bainbridge, just the fact of being inside the farming community demystified meat quite a bit for me.  I got to see some aspects of small-scale meat raising and learned a little about butchery of both mammals and birds.  I am very grateful that my first butchering experience was alongside Betsey.  Watching and listening to her as she went about it and witnessing her respect for the animal and the seriousness of the process  set a very good tone for the rest of my future experiences.

It was a very powerful experience both times we did butchering at the yurt.  Of course harvesting the animals we’d bred and raised ourselves was a bonding and thought-provoking thing for me and Alice.  Additionally, especially this second time around, I felt that I was taking part in an important passing of knowledge.  I learned the method of rabbit slaughter and butchering from Noe, who learned it from Charmaigne.  I assisted Noe a couple of times and then I was on my own to teach others.  I set up my processing station as closely as I could as an exact model of Noe’s and remembered her advice about things like stopping food and water 24 hours before slaughter.  Alice and Remington and I kind of felt our way through the first butchering back in August.  It went well but I felt much more assured the second time around.  This time I had a whole crew of friends who were eager to learn and I loved watching them learn by doing after I gave the initial run-through.  I feel like this type of thing can’t be learned by watching a YouTube video but rather needs to be done with one’s own hands.  As I watched Peter’s hands shaking a bit as he went to make the first cuts, I recognized the same rush of adrenaline and nerves and the heightened sense of focus that I got with the first rabbit I did at Noe’s and that I still get now as I carry the small animal through the steps that make up its final moments.

I am very thankful for the friends that came out to help; it’s a great crew of folks that I met through bike-riding friends in Seattle.  They have all been friends for awhile but are now treating me like one of their own.  One of the ladies, Clair, owns a small farm in Olympia where she raises a lot of meat birds, so these guys often get together to help Clair and Kalen with bird processing.   So for them, coming together for an event that involved killing a batch of animals was nothing new.  For me it meant that I didn’t have to worry about anyone getting queasy when they realized it was more than they’d bargained for.  Having a group of friends who are totally up for the job and who can come together when extra hands are needed is an invaluable resource for the tiny-scale farmer or homesteader like Clair with her birds or me with my rabbits.  It put me in mind of what things must have been like back in the day with barn-raisings and making hay and whatnot where each farmer in turn would call upon his neighbors to help get the big jobs done.

The old-timey feel was very strong in general on Saturday.  After finishing with the 8 rabbits we cleaned up and made dinner in the yurt.   My favorite moment of the evening was when I walked back inside the yurt after having gone outside to change the batteries as we were running low on power.  All the electric lights were off but the soft illumination from kerosene lamps and candles was lighting everyone’s faces as they sat around the woodstove listening to Kalen playing his concertina.  The place was full of rich aromas from the rabbit braising on the stovetop and potatoes roasting in the oven.  The mood was warm and the sense of camaraderie was strong as we had just worked in synchronization on this important task and seen it through to a successful conclusion.  I felt very lucky to be right there right then at that moment.

I now am the proud owner of exactly one rabbit.  Edith, a doe from the first batch of babies that Alice and I birthed, is now 6 months old and ready to become a Mama.  Edith is going to come with me to Wallingford and join the herd there when I move back in December.  I’m pleased that even with the ups and downs of the rabbit scene this season, I feel like continuing on with a bunny in my life.

I really appreciate the support that I’ve gotten as I’ve pursued this little experiment.  Especially from my family — I was slightly concerned about showing you all the cute bunnies when you visited for fear you’d try and talk me out of butchering them or else think of me as a hard-hearted murderer from there forward.  Instead you seemed totally down with the idea and even sent me sharp knives in the mail as gifts when I expressed my need for more reliable butchering tools!  Thanks guys; I’ll bring you some rabbit stew if you think you’re up for it 🙂

This rabbit experiment has brought me that final step toward knowing where meat comes from.  I’m not going to only eat meat from animals which I personally raised from birth to death.  But having done it once I feel at least gives me a new perspective on the whole business.

It’s pumpkin bread time of year


I baked pumpkin bread the other day to share with friends who were coming over to help me with processing my rabbits.  (Post about that to follow).  I used an Oxbow pumpkin in place of the canned pumpkin I have always used in the past.  This was obviously much more time consuming as I had to cut up the pumpkin, roast it, mash it, and then use it instead of just opening a can.  But I got some bonuses out of the deal, such as yummy cumin/cayenne/salt roasted pumpkin seeds.  I also cubed a bunch of the extra pumpkin, boiled and peeled it and put the cubes in the freezer for later use.

I used my mom’s practially-perfect pumpin bread recipe from the cookbook she made for me a few years ago as a jumping off point and made a couple little changes.

When I decided to post my pictures and the recipe, I hopped over to Mom’s blog to see if she had posted the recipe sometime in the past so I wouldn’t have to type it in.  It’s an old standby at our house so it seemed likely.  Then, something CRAZY happened.  I scrolled down her posts for a minute, mouth watering as I admired the things she’d been making out of romanesco and farro.  Then there it was!  Pumpkin bread.  November 6th, 2011.  What? Not the SAME DAY that I baked pumpkin bread?  What!  Yes it was.  I mean seriously, what are the chances? 🙂  Dude Mom, you and I are scarily in sync from opposite sides of the country.   Or perhaps this is just the time of year when everybody and their mother (Ha! ha!) bakes pumpkin bread.

Anyways, I followed her recipe with the following changes.

– Coconut oil for the fat instead of vegetable oil

– Double all the spices and add a couple teaspoons of ginger

– Use raspberries instead of nuts

– Use 1/4C sugar and 1/4 C molasses.

It was moist and spicy and delicious and we had it with vanilla ice cream for dessert after a dinner of rabbit braised with shallots, roasted potatoes & carrots, and sauteed cabbage & apples.

YUM!  I love food!